Have you ever been to English class... on weed?

Yesterday before class, I was enjoying a nice summer breeze that was coming through the window when I was suddenly overcome by the smell of marijuana smoke. (Not that I have any reason to know what marijuana actually smells like, but I saw a movie about it once, and it gave me a pretty good idea.) I was stunned.. was I somehow emitting this smell? Were my students having a little fun before class..? No, of course not. (Incidentally, drug addiction is pretty unheard of in China, especially among college students.) It was everywhere in the room! I walked over to Shelby's classroom to check with her, and on the way over the hallway was absolutely filled with smoke. Shelby came out and confirmed what we were smelling. I ran downstairs to check with Ali, and yep, he had noticed the same thing. Where was it coming from? Was NPU unwittingly growing a field of marijuana? The peasant laborers doing the landscaping had no idea what it was and just decided to burn it...? Or could they be playing a great trick on the entire campus?! The point was, however, that my classroom was basically hotboxed the entire night, turned into a giant marijuana steam room! Not that I can really complain.. My students were so interested in my lesson (about Genetically Modified foods) and were laughing maybe a little too much when we sang "Apples and Bananas" by Raffi. Finally, they had to come up with their own genetically modified foods, and I really think the atmosphere helped them think a little "outside of the box." Some of my favorites: parrot DNA put into a flower to make talking flowers, a fruit that can change your gender from male to female and back again (or vice versa), a cow or pig that can regenerate its body parts when they're cut off-like a lizard.

As an interesting side note, the character for marijuana in Chinese (麻 ma) means plant that are grown inside a building, and as my Chinese teacher put it, "What kind of plants would you need to grow indoors?"

Pictures, etc.

I've updated my pictures to include a bunch of shots from the various facets of life here, including all the Christmas photos that I never posted before.

On a more entertaining note, one of my students is currently reading Lolita as sort of an investigation into Western culture and ethics. Here are his thoughts from the first part of the book: "Half of the words are talking about Humbert's eccentricity again and again. The other half? Depicting young girls' backsides and thighs in a hundred ways." I couldn't have put it more elegantly.

My Life as an Orphan

I'm all alone again since my mom and Rod left after a very short stay in Xi'an last week. They were only here for three days (after spending a few days in Beijing), so I tried to show them everything that was good and exciting about my life in Xi'an.
The best part of their trip was just spending time with them, since it had been over seven months since our last meeting. We had a lot of interesting conversations about life in China and differences from the West, which gave me a good opportunity to vent about certain things that remain frustrations. The really interesting part for me was the incongruities they noticed that I had long since accepted or forgotten about. Here are a few examples:

• The fact that there is no organized system of lines.. anywhere. It's first come, first serve, and even if you are surrounded by a gaggle of old ladies trying to make their way on to the bus, an elbow to the ribs would not be out of place to get yourself to the front.
  
• The lack of heat in most buildings. Unfortunately, my mom and Rod arrived here a few days after March 15, the day the heat was shut off by the central authority in Beijing. This is a country-wide policy and has nothing to do with the actual weather conditions. (In fact, only a few days before the shut-off, I was running the air conditioner along with the heat, because it was so warm outside). During my mom's stay, however, the weather was anything but pleasant. It was cold and rainy, so we were forced to do as the Chinese, that is, wear more clothing.
  
• The excess amounts of food. I got used to this a long time ago, that there is always too much food at banquets and other dinner parties with friends. It's a way to show your generosity and prosperity. My mom and Rod just saw it as a waste.
• My favorite thing and something I have been meaning to write about for a long time: crotchless baby pants. Until the age of 4 or 5, children walk around with a huge split in their pants, exposing their bums and nether regions. At any given moment, you may see a child squatting at the side of the road or next to a tree, relieving themselves for someone else to clean up later. Lily, my Chinese friend, also informed me that parents can train their children to pee at the sound of a whistle, sort of a Pavlov's dog thing. I was happy to learn, however, that diapers are used at some occasions when I was sitting next to a mother and child during a two-hour flight.
  

My mom and Rod's arrival at the airport. The flowers are from Ma Jing.. I'm not that thoughtful of a daughter.

Taken at the starting point of the Silk Road.

Some old Chinese guy who commented on Rod's youthful appearance and made Rod feel his strong thumb muscles.

New Teacher

This semester, I'm teaching one section of freshman students, the only class that I didn't also teach last semester. The first week, I spent some time introducing myself and getting to know the class. For their journal assignments, some of the students shared their first impressions of me:

"Our new foreign teacher is a lovely, beautiful girl and also a three-quarters American. It really make me feel friendly that she told us a quarter of her blood is Chinese. Her name, Kitty Hallin, had caught much attention because Hello Kitty is a world-known cartoon role."

"Kitty, it's very nice to meet you, my new English teacher. I have listened to your class for just one time but your special teaching skill slay me."

"Slowly but surely, the first English class of listening and speaking came. To our surprise, a new teacher turned up in the class. Of course, she is Kitty Hallin. Kitty Hallin really looked short. [. . .] As a whole, our new teacher is very interesting and smart and she would come up, with some new idea to improve our English skills. Am I right, Miss Hallin?"

News travels fast here

This past Saturday, I picked up a copy of China Daily, the English language newspaper published by the Communist Party. It's not a very reliable source of news (one travel book called it a "propaganda sheet"), but it syndicates the New York Times crossword puzzle, so I shell out the 1.5 yuan a few times a week to get it. This particular issue carried a headline saying, "Xi'an safe for foreign tourists, mayor says". The story went on to explain how a bus carrying ten Australian tourists was hijacked by a man with explosives strapped to his chest. The hijacker was eventually shot dead and none of the tourists were hurt. This happened on Wednesday. The news came out on Saturday, four days after this occurred. There was no other mention of this event, before or after it happened, and the reason for this attack is still unknown. After asking all my students about it this week, only a few had even heard about what happened.

This is just one example of the extremely censored media that I have access to in China. While vacationing in Cambodia, I read about a mine that collapsed in Shanxi province in December 2007, killing 147 workers. This happened only a few hours away from Xi'an, yet there was never any news about it. Part of the problem is that I don't speak Chinese, so anything I hear comes from the English websites that I can still reach through the Great Firewall (BBC not included), from word of mouth, or from publications like China Daily.

Still, I'm constantly amazed by the kind of information my students receive (read: completely biased). A few months ago, a student asked if I had ever heard of the student demonstrations in 1989 in Beijing i.e Tiananmen Square. He had only chanced upon this information by watching a documentary that had been officially banned in China but that he had downloaded from the internet.

Re-conversion to Vegetarianism

I found this disturbing news item in a paper in Bangkok when I was on vacation:
"When an American caterer working for the U.S. Olympic Committee went to a supermarket in China last year, he encountered a piece of chicken - half a breast - that measured 14 inches. 'Enough to feed a family of eight,' said the caterer, Frank Puleo, who has traveled from New York to China to handle food related issues.
We had it tested and it was so full of steroids that we never could have given it to athletes,' Puleo said of the chicken meat that measured about 35 centimeters. 'They all would have tested postive.' "

So with the knowledge that I've been unwittingly bulking up for the past 6 months, I've decided to rededicate myself to the life of an herbivore. Although with the language barrier, I'll have to be less than strict about my vegetarian diet. This change, however, has the added benefit of giving me a valid excuse to avoid eating some of the very strange delicacies in China.
In honor of that fact, I'm giving you a list of all the exotic morsels I've indulged in and my amateur culinary opinion.

Pig's feet: Not much to eat, mostly skin, and very hard to hold with chopsticks. Overall, lacked flavor.

Cow's stomach: Texture is the main appeal. Feels like bubble wrap.

Chicken feet: After accidentally ordering this, I was too scared to actually eat it. Chicken feet look surprisingly like huge pieces of ginger.

Duck intestines: Probably one of the most unappetizing things I've ever had. Imagine eating an anus. That's what it tasted like.. with peppers!

Duck brain: A lot like foie gras. I definitely recommend this one.

Hundred-Year Old Egg: The egg is not actually one hundred years old, but marinated in some sort of brine for a few weeks, giving it a murky appearance. Kind of an acquired taste.

Ox Lung: Looks like beeswax, feels like a tennis net. Overall, not bad.

Sheep's testicle: A silken texture that feels amazing on the palate. Definitely a must.

Me and the threatening chicken appendage.

Lily and Shelby enjoying sheep genitals as part of our Christmas feast.

Back to the Grind

Well, almost. Class doesn't officially start for another five days, but I've been using my last days of freedom to finish all the tasks I left hanging for a month while I was off cavorting in exotic locations. The weather in Xi'an is not as cold as I expected, but it was a little shock to the nervous system after all the time spent on the beach. My tan is definitely out of place in this climate and where "whitening cream" can be found in almost any skin care item.

I posted the rest of my pictures from my vacation which can be viewed here. For a more graphic representation of where I was, you can look at this map. I also put up some pictures of my week spent in Shanghai after New Years, which you can see here.

I'm looking forward to getting back to work and seeing my students again, although I might be taking on a few extra hours, due to the fact that four foreign teachers left this semester and have yet to be replaced. Hooray.

Pictures and Cambodia: Updated

Sorry for the fact that I haven't kept you all better updated on my travels. I made it out of China before the big snowstorm hit, and I've been very happily avoiding the cold weather in Vietnam and now Cambodia. Apparently, the hotel in Xian has been without power and heating, and the temperature was -8 celsius the last time I checked! I'm staying warm in the town of Siem Reap, just outside the ancient city of Angkor Wat. After spending a few days here, I'm off to Thailand where I fly home February 19th. I just wanted to share a few pictures I uploaded from my time spent in Chengdu and Kunming. There will be more to follow.. just as soon as I get the chance.

Update: I put up more pictures of my time in Vietnam. I spent all of today wandering the ruins of Angkor Wat, and I'm still not done! I'm going back for more tomorrow before heading on to Bangkok on the 9th.

Hello from Kunming

My travels have been successful so far; no major accidents or inconveniences. But it has been quite an adventure.


I managed to fall ill the night before I left for Chengdu. Because of the snow in Xi'an, we had to leave super early (4am) for the airport to catch our 8am flight. While I was still groggy from the Nyquil I took 4 hours before, we mangaged to catch a cab to the airport without too much hassle. Chengdu was a really nice city; the public buses were easy to navigate and there was lots to see and do. However, the weather there and my sickness contributed to me hating Chengdu with a passion. It was rainy and damp the entire time we were there, and because of it's position south of the "North-South" line in China, there is absolutely no heating indoors. The only source of heat they have is their supremely spicy cuisine which can't help but warm your insides. Our first day there, we were treated to a bowl of chilli peppers and duck heads (pictures to follow). It wasn't all bad, though, for our trip to the Panda Research Base and Breeding Center was the highlight of my short life. We had to get there early (between 8:30 and 9:30) to catch the pandas while they were feeding and before they fell asleep for the rest of the day. There's no words to describe the cuteness of the whole spectacle (especially the panda cubs), but I'll post pictures as soon as I get the chance.


Kunming has been really enjoyable so far, and it definitely buoyed my spirits after our stay in Chengdu. The weather here is much nicer, and you can actually see the sky! (as opposed to Xi'an) The first day here, we got our Vietnamese visas sorted out, which will be finished on Monday afternoon. Monday evening we're taking a loonng bus ride (there's no train on the Chinese side) to Hekou, the last stop in China before reaching Vietnam. The plan from there is to catch a train into Hanoi, where we'll stay for a few days. In the mean time, I'll be exploring Kunming's numerous parks and temples and enjoying all the coffee and Western food available.

Winter Wonderland

It snowed in Xi'an yesterday, just in time for me to head south for the winter.



Tomorrow I'll be heading on a grand tour of Southeast Asia via Southern China. Here's my itinerary so far:
January 14-15: Chengdu, China
The highlight of this stop will be the Panda Research Base and Breeding Center (ie. baby pandas!) and the spicy cuisine typical of Sichuan province.
January 15-19: Kunming, China
The main reason for this stay is to acquire visas from the Vietnamese and Cambodian consulates located in the city, but I've heard the coffee in Yunan province is especially good.

From there, I'll be heading into Vietnam, either by train or plane, but I'll try and keep you posted as I move. Until then, enjoy this picture of a snowman from the street behind my house. It looks a little pathetic, but I guess they couldn't spare the coal.

Off to the Big City

I'm leaving today for Shanghai, and I'll be there for about a week. I'm looking forward to catching up with the family, exploring a city even bigger than Xi'an and shopping, of course. (The Chinese all say that Shanghai is only good if you like to shop, since there's no 'culture' to speak of.) I'll be back briefly on the 9th before heading on vacation for real this time, but you can expect another post before that.

Sorry Excuse for a Blogger

I really meant to post sooner, but I got caught up in the whole Christmas season (ie. eating and drinking lots). In addition, my computer, which has been slowly breaking down for a couple years, refuses to recognize the internet connection in my apartment, meaning I have to come to my (unheated) office to go online. Needless to say, my blog may become even more sporadic. What's more, I am hopelessly tech-un-savy, and I can't get any of my pictures to load onto this computer. So while I was going to treat you all to the tale of my Christmas adventures, it will have to wait until I can get my visual aids to work.

In more positive news, tonight I'll be ringing in 2008 China-style. No word yet on what that means, but I'm sure it will include (lots of) baijiu. My TV interview will also air tonight at 11:50 pm, so hopefully no one will be at home to watch.

Happy Birthday to my mom who turned an unspecified youthful age December 30th and is now officially engaged to a wonderful man. Congratulations to the both of them and Happy New Year to the rest of you! 新年快乐!

Obligatiory Political Rant

To be honest, I'm not really in the ranting mood, but I suggest you read this article about America's continued "War on Drugs".

To promulgate more of my personal ideology (just in time for the holiday season), I'd like to recommend this website where you can find locally produced foods in your area. Good for local farmers, the environment, and your conscience (which will make it taste better too)!

Check back tomorrow for more about the Christmas season in Xi'an, attempts at festivity and my apparent mission to spread Christmas cheer.

Too Much Recycling is a Bad Thing

A few weeks ago, I came across this article. It tells that certain ingenious entrepreneurs in China have been recycling used condoms into colorful hair bands resulting in a much cheaper product than the traditional methods. I forwarded the article to a few other foreign teachers in China, and we all had a good laugh. China's recycling system is above and beyond anything found in the States. Every trash bag is sorted to remove all plastics, papers, metals, and... condoms?

Today, while shopping for some Christmas gifts in an open market, I spotted a package of hair bands that looked suspiciously like those pictured in the online article.


My curiosity got the better of me, so I decided to buy them. When I got home, I took one of the hair ties and unwrapped the thread only to find this:


A further internet search revealed that "local entertainment venues" may contribute a large number of the condoms.
Gross.

I'm Much Too Turtle-y for the Turtle Club

The day after I got Doudou, it dawned on me that her cantankerous attitude may be due to the fact she was lonely. The turtle man did advise that two turtles were best, one male and one female, so that they could entertain each other or something. So I went back to the road-side stall and picked out a small male turtle and named him 小绿 (Xiao Lu or Little Green). Since then, Doudou and Xiao Lu have been getting along smashingly as evidenced by the picture below.

They're kissing! Okay, so they didn't do that themselves, but they have taken to sleeping in close contact. The other night I came home to find them holding hands, and yesterday I caught this moment on camera:

Doudou likes to be on top.

The Newest Member of the Family

Say hello to 豆豆! (pronounced do do, or just Beans)

She's not much bigger than my big toe and amazingly cute, despite her consistent grouchiness. When I asked the pet shop man (or more accurately, the guy who was selling plants, coffee mugs, and turtles at the side of the road) how long she would live, he answered "If you don't feed it, they can live up to a month." Don't worry, I plan on feeding her. I even bought some little turtle pellets, although Lily assured me that turtles can also live on rice.

Weekend Update

I'm still alive and as busy as ever.

The semester is starting to wind down which means exams to plan and plenty of things to grade. Three of my classes will finish in two weeks, and the other two will finish a couple weeks after that. Then, it's vacation! For a month! My plans are still up in the air (way, way up), but they'll definitely involve some warm weather. I'm thinking SE Asia, but I also hope to visit the family in Shanghai.

I had a very nice Thanksgiving here halfway across the world. I had to teach on Thursday, so we decided to celebrate on the Tuesday before. We had a pretty decent group, a few of the other foreign teachers at NPU and some other foreign and Chinese friends. There were only three Americans there, so it was really just an excuse to get together and eat massive amounts of food. We went to a restaurant that serves duck in the Beijing style (Peking duck), which is one of my favorite foods. We also wanted to keep in the whole roast bird theme for the holiday (no turkey in China). We ordered two whole ducks and some other dishes similar to traditional Thanksgiving foods (fried green beans, potatoes, something involving corn and pumpkin, and duck gut sandwiches-a Thanksgiving first!) The food was amazing, and the company was almost as good.

Here is Lily, our Chinese friend, with Ali in the traditional Scottish Thanksgiving dress.

In other news, I'll be on Chinese television sometime in the next few weeks to discuss how Americans give gifts. Random, I know. I'll let you all know how it goes. And yes, I'm getting a copy on DVD for us to watch later and laugh at.

Happy Birthday to my brother Jeremy who turned 27 on November 24th. He is now officially a grown up in my eyes.

Happy (Belated) Halloween!

Halloween is not even known about here in the far East, so I spent the whole week teaching about/celebrating it in my classes. That meant five Halloween parties altogether! Shelby and I combined our classes and showed them part of The Shining. They had to create skits to explain how the story would end. The results were, needless to say, pretty hilarious. Here is a journal entry from my student, Lionstrong, which really captures the whole atmosphere of the event:

"A Treat on Halloween"

Trick or Treat?
For the first time, my fellow classmates and I enjoyed this exotic festival. No trick, only treat from Kitty and Shalby!
Shalby showed her creativity in her super-teacher's costume, while Kitty hided her gentleness in her black cat-like dresses. To begin with, they shared their past photoes of Halloween and introduced some of the main customs.
Then, they gave away candies in a round box where a moving hand with a scary voice was trying to stop the approaching hand for candy. Very interestingly, some girls even not dare to put out their lovely hands. Maybe that's what the two teachers wanted.
After that came the most appealing part. Not knowing what to do next, we were completely buried in the scary movie. When it came to a very very attractive spot, Kitty stopped the film.
She asked us to perform the final episode in our own ways with our own ideas. One minute late, the groups were divided. It is never boring to discuss what will happen both in films and reality.
At the time when the performance were on, our group only got a brief design. Of course, our performance were the shortest, less than one minute and one minute shorter than the required time. Some other groups were very imaginative, expressive and attractive.
At last, two teachers gave out the number of groups with good performance. It was quite surprising! We were in them! As a reward, Kitty treated us with real American Candy. It was delicious!
What a Halloween night!

Here is a picture from the costume contest organized by one of the Chinese professors. Some of the costumes were really creative, especially considering their limited knowledge about the holiday and their limited resources for making costumes. Many were made with only paper, paint and bamboo. You can see one the winners in front wearing black and carrying a scythe.

Here is a skit from one of my classes. Enough said.

Puppies, puppies everywhere..

Much to my delight (and chagrin), there are often people sitting at the side of the road with a box of the most adorable puppies. Here's one I fell in love with on a shopping trip downtown.
The chagrin part comes from the fact that I can only cuddle with these precious balls of fluff for as long as I am willing to squat next to the puppy-selling man, which is usually not that long. I'm trying to convince one of my Chinese friends to get a puppy that I can play with.

We spotted this one on campus, probably a recent purchase by one of the graduate students.

On Saturday night we saw a man peddling tiny pets on the street downtown. He was selling gerbils, turtles, and little fish conveniently packaged in a key chain. I might just crack and get some kind of pet before my stay is up. How long do turtles live..?

My Week of Adventures, Part 7: 华山

The next day of our vacation (I've forgotten which day exactly) we decided to conquer Mount Hua (华山 Hua Shan, literally Flower Mountain). The mountain is a 2 hour bus ride from Xi'an and is described by many as "the most perilous mountain in China!" Find out more about its long history here.

All of our students suggested that we climb the mountain at night, because "you can't fear what you don't see!" Also, by starting the climb around 11pm, we would reach the eastern summit just in time for sunrise. My Frommer's China guide simply said "This is not sensible." Well, sorry Mr. Frommer but we had to experience it like the locals do, even if it meant accidentally stumbling off a cliff in the dark (which some of my students warned me had happened in the past).We arrived at the base of the mountain far around 8pm and far too early to start our ascent, so we enjoyed some dishes (and beer!) at one the many restaurants catering to the hikers. The whole street reminded me of some prospectors town from the gold rush. Everyone was selling last minute necessities to climbers, like maps, white gloves, and red ties emblazoned with the words 华山. (You can see one draped around David's neck - for only 2 kuai!)

We stopped in this park to play some charades before starting on our climb.

With our hiking shoes and bags filled with water and snacks, we looked about ready for a month-long excursion into the Amazon compared to the other climbers. Most of the Chinese people were wearing their normal, everyday clothes. We even saw one guy in dress shoes and a suit coat. Here is us and a few of our compatriots in front of the entrance to the mountain.

We must have looked pretty stupid for carrying our own water and food onto the mountain when we could have just bought it there. The path was lined with little shops selling beverages and snacks to tired climbers.

National Day vacation rears its ugly head again. The mountain was filled with like-minded tourists making their way to the top. Here is the line of people winding down the mountain behind us. At this point, we were literally at a stand-still, waiting in line to climb further up the slope.

In the end, it was well worth it. Here is the view from the eastern peak around 6:15 am, right before sunrise.

The red head ties everyone buys at the base of the mountain get clipped to the railings along with little locks inscribed with a few words (wishing good health for the family or to commemorate a romance). It makes for a beautiful picture with the mountains in the background.

A friendly reminder to step carefully.

The thought of climbing back down the mountain was too painful after a sleepless night and with very tired legs, so we decided to spring for the cable cars which took a cool 5 minutes to bring us to the bottom.

Thus concludes my blog about the National Day vacation (finally). Click here to see more pictures from the week.